Xavier Decramer and family join others leaving New Caledonia as violence escalates over electoral disputes, sailing to Brisbane for safety

Xavier Decramer and his family never intended to make New Caledonia their home. What was meant to be a brief stop on a global sailing adventure turned into an extended stay. “We discovered a very nice place to stay and to live,” Decramer recounts from his boat in the Nouméa marina. The island offered excellent infrastructure, peaceful communities, and a warm, courteous atmosphere. It quickly became home to Decramer, his wife, Maeva Zebrowski, and their three young children.

However, the recent outbreak of violence in New Caledonia has forced the family to leave. After less than a year, they are preparing to sail to Brisbane, Australia, a journey of 770 nautical miles. “It’s clearly with a heavy heart that we’re going to be leaving this place,” Decramer says. The decision has been particularly tough for Maeva, who was born in New Caledonia, and for their children, who have built friendships and found a sense of community.

The violence erupted over French plans to unfreeze electoral rolls for provincial elections. This change would grant voting rights to tens of thousands of non-Indigenous residents. According to the Nouméa Accord, voting in provincial elections was limited to those who had resided in New Caledonia before 1998 and their descendants. This measure aimed to ensure greater representation for the Indigenous Kanak population, which comprises about 40% of New Caledonia’s 270,000 people. Kanak groups argue that the new voting rules would dilute their electoral power.

Over the past week, the unrest has led to rioting, looting, and arson, resulting in six deaths, including two gendarmes, and hundreds of injuries. France has deployed over 1,000 security forces to restore order, with President Emmanuel Macron stating that there has been “clear progress in re-establishing order.” However, pro-independence activists, largely from the Kanak community, have vowed to continue their protests. Reports from Nouméa indicate that roadblocks dismantled by security forces are being rebuilt by protestors.

The turmoil has disrupted daily life in New Caledonia. With the international airport closed for commercial flights, many residents have limited options for leaving. Some governments have arranged repatriation flights for their nationals. For Decramer and his family, sailing away on their boat became the only viable option. The hardest part, Decramer notes, is the impact on their children, who are leaving behind friends and a sense of stability.

The political tension in New Caledonia is not new. Decramer recalls that while protests and occasional unrest were part of life, the recent violence took even long-time residents by surprise. “The demonstrations that were happening in the past few months – yes, they were big, but they were peaceful,” he says. The sudden escalation has been unexpected and alarming for many.

Despite the violence, Decramer observes a strong sense of solidarity among the people of New Caledonia. Local radio station NC La Première has been a crucial resource, offering live information and fostering community support. People have been sharing phone recharge codes, fetching medicine for the elderly, and keeping each other informed about safe routes and open stores. Decramer recounts how neighbourhood patrols, including parents at his youngest child’s school, have played a vital role in protecting the community.

The family’s temporary retreat to a nearby island in the lagoon provided little relief. “We were 12 nautical miles out and we could still hear some of the detonations from the city at night. You could still smell the burnt plastic,” Decramer recalls. The pervasive sense of turmoil has made it clear that their departure is necessary for their safety.

Looking to the future, Decramer remains hopeful for New Caledonia. He believes that greater autonomy or eventual independence is the island’s likely path. “I hope that their path towards independence will be a peaceful one,” he says, emphasizing the need for inclusivity. He envisions a future where New Caledonia’s unique multicultural identity is recognized and respected.

As the Decramer family sets sail for Australia, they leave behind a place they had grown to love. Their story reflects the broader challenges facing New Caledonia as it navigates its complex political landscape. For now, the priority is safety, but the hope for a peaceful and inclusive future remains strong.

Analysis:

The forced departure of French nationals like Xavier Decramer from New Caledonia highlights the complex and volatile political situation in the French Pacific territory. This analysis explores the broader implications of the unrest from various perspectives.

From a political perspective, the violence in New Caledonia underscores the deep-rooted tensions between the Indigenous Kanak population and non-Indigenous residents. The proposed changes to the electoral rolls threaten to dilute the political power of the Kanak people, sparking fierce resistance. The unrest reflects broader issues of colonial legacy and the struggle for self-determination. France’s deployment of security forces and President Macron’s statements indicate the high stakes involved in maintaining control over this strategically significant territory.

Sociologically, the situation in New Caledonia reveals the challenges of multicultural coexistence. The island’s diverse population includes Indigenous Kanak, French nationals, and other ethnic groups. The unrest has strained these relationships, but it has also highlighted the resilience and solidarity of the community. Local initiatives, such as the radio station NC La Première, play a crucial role in fostering communication and support among residents, demonstrating the strength of communal bonds in times of crisis.

Economically, the violence has significant implications. The disruption of daily life, including the closure of the international airport, affects the local economy. Tourism, a vital industry for New Caledonia, is likely to suffer. The departure of expatriates and the uncertainty surrounding the political situation could deter investment and impact economic stability. The long-term economic prospects of New Caledonia hinge on resolving these political tensions and ensuring a stable environment for both residents and businesses.

From a gender perspective, the crisis affects men and women differently. Women, often primary caregivers, face additional burdens in ensuring the safety and well-being of their families. The communal efforts to protect schools and provide essential supplies highlight the critical role women play in maintaining social cohesion during crises. Addressing the unique challenges faced by women in conflict situations is essential for a comprehensive approach to peacebuilding.

Race and minority perspectives are central to understanding the conflict in New Caledonia. The Indigenous Kanak population’s struggle for political representation and autonomy is at the heart of the unrest. The proposed electoral changes threaten to undermine their hard-won gains, leading to a backlash. Recognizing and addressing the historical and systemic inequalities faced by the Kanak people is crucial for achieving lasting peace and justice in New Caledonia.

Locally, the impact of the violence is profound. Families like the Decramers, who have integrated into the community, face difficult decisions about their future. The sense of loss and displacement experienced by those leaving reflects the broader uncertainty and fear gripping the island. Efforts to rebuild and heal the community will require significant time and resources.

In conclusion, the turmoil in New Caledonia is a multifaceted crisis with political, social, economic, and cultural dimensions. The forced migration of families like the Decramers underscores the human cost of the conflict. Moving forward, addressing the underlying issues of representation, equity, and autonomy is essential for achieving a peaceful and inclusive future for New Caledonia.