As our guide, Anton, jests, “Now you know why Icelandic people believe in trolls and giants.” It’s the dead of night, and our mission is to witness the Northern Lights. However, instead of stargazing, Anton has driven his colossal five-tonne truck onto the heart of a frozen lake, insisting it’s the perfect spot for a late-night walk.

Beneath us, a solid layer of ice separates us from an icy abyss, producing eerie thumping noises with every step—reminiscent of the footsteps of Iceland’s mythical beings. Gradually, as we grow more accustomed to our moonlit saunter, these sounds become oddly exciting. Even the fissures in the lake’s surface fail to rattle us. With thick, low-hanging clouds obscuring the aurora, we reluctantly call off our search.

Instead, we huddle around a cast-iron fire pit in the middle of the ice, sipping on cognac and hot chocolate. The biting -13°C air pierces through our layers, and the elusive Northern Lights remain hidden, but none of it matters. We’re caught up in a moment unlike any other, one we’re unlikely to replicate anytime soon. In short, it’s the most exhilarating hot chocolate experience I’ve ever had.

Exhilaration is a constant companion in North Iceland. The giants of folklore may be mythical, but the seas here are home to some of the world’s most colossal creatures. If you’re fortunate, you might see them breach the water’s surface, offering a majestic wave of their fins or flukes before returning to the depths.

Minutes after our fishing boat departs from Akureyri’s harbour, a humpback whale gracefully emerges mere feet from our vessel. The skipper informs me that such sightings have been a daily occurrence. This highlights Iceland’s propensity to deliver moments that, for most of us, are extraordinary.

Driving from one town to the next reveals an abundance of natural wonders, modestly signposted and freely accessible along the roadside. The awe-inspiring Godafoss waterfall, a thundering spectacle that can be heard long before it’s seen, is just one example.

Elsewhere, geysers shoot plumes of steam skyward, and towering mountains loom over dramatic, otherworldly lava fields formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. Volcanoes continue to influence daily life, with dormant ones like Hverfjall transformed into hiking trails.

Surviving our icy lake adventure, we don crampons once more to ascend this landmark. From its peak, we gaze upon a snow-covered landscape, a visual feast for the senses.

Beyond the vistas, Iceland’s fiery mountains gift the land with geothermal spas. Swimming outside in sub-zero temperatures is seldom recommended, but Iceland defies convention. In the north, several options await those seeking a warming dip in naturally heated waters, such as Geosea near Husavik, offering infinity pool-style facilities with sea and fjord views, or the Myvatn Nature Baths nestled in a valley.

Yet, the standout choice is undoubtedly Akureyri’s Forest Lagoon, complete with swim-up bars and stone tables surrounded by pine trees—an intimate setting for thawing out with a hot drink.

Getting to North Iceland has become more accessible thanks to easyJet’s new twice-weekly direct flights to Akureyri, opening up this spectacular world to a wider audience.

Hotels like the Myvatn Berjaya provide the perfect base for exploring the sights, offering modern rooms and a restaurant serving local delicacies, including bread baked underground by the country’s volcanic heat. It’s also equipped with hot tubs.

Few experiences rival the relaxation of ending your day with a beer in hand, soaking in warm waters as snowflakes gently fall around you. North Iceland truly offers a world of enchantment and adventure, where nature’s wonders blend seamlessly with modern comforts.