A journey through ancient grains, unexpected discoveries, and the biscuit recipe you need to try.

For years, Rachel Roddy dismissed spelt as just another fancy grain. It took a midnight walk through London with baker Henrietta Inman to change everything. As the glow of Oxford Street’s neon signs flickered around them, Inman described spelt’s unique flavour—soft, nutty, and subtly sweet. She had left the high-pressure world of luxury hotel pastry kitchens to embrace a more natural, ingredient-led approach. And she insisted spelt was a game-changer.

Roddy had heard of spelt before—after all, the Romans called it the “marching grain.” But its confusing array of names—spelta, farro spelta, emmer, einkorn, dinkel wheat—had kept her from truly understanding it. That conversation, however, planted a seed. It would take her seven years to finally listen.

A Lesson in Flour and Flavour

During those years, Roddy travelled alongside Inman, now a baker at the Wakelyns organic agroforestry hub in Suffolk, and journalist Laura Lazzaroni. Their visit to the biodynamic farm Coste del Sole in Italy was a revelation. There, they tasted freshly milled farro dicocco flour—so rich and fragrant that Roddy mistook it for hazelnut. It was a moment of clarity. Flour wasn’t just an ingredient; it had flavour, depth, and character.

Back home, Roddy put this knowledge into practice. Spelt flour’s natural acidity and sweetness meant she needed less sugar in her biscuits. And when paired with toasted hazelnuts and butter, it created a shortbread with depth unlike anything she had baked before. The key, she discovered, was in the chilling. A well-chilled dough held its shape better, though even then, the biscuits would spread slightly in the oven.

The result? A biscuit that was crisp on the outside, tender in the middle, and bursting with nutty, buttery flavour. Paired with a hot drink—tea, milky coffee, or hot chocolate—the warmth unlocked the oils in the nuts and butter, intensifying the flavours.

Hazelnut, Spelt, and Butter Biscuits Recipe

Makes 12-14

• 120g spelt, wholegrain or plain flour
• 160g toasted hazelnuts (or almonds/walnuts), finely ground with some small chunks
• A pinch of salt
• 150g cold butter, cubed
• 90g muscovado or soft brown sugar
• 1 egg yolk

Method:

1. In a bowl, mix the flour, 100g of the ground nuts (reserving the rest), and salt.
2. Rub in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
3. Stir in the sugar and egg yolk, then bring everything together into a dough.
4. Shape the dough into a log (5-6cm diameter) and roll it in the remaining ground nuts.
5. Wrap in baking paper and refrigerate for at least two hours.
6. Preheat the oven to 170C (150C fan)/340F/gas 3½ and line a baking tray with paper.
7. Slice the dough into 1cm-thick rounds and space them out on the tray.
8. Bake for 12-14 minutes, until golden and just firm.
9. Carefully transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.

The Takeaway

This biscuit isn’t just a recipe; it’s the result of years of discovery, travel, and a new way of thinking about ingredients. Spelt flour, once overlooked, is now a star. And with this recipe, you’ll taste why.